BL Workshop
Speed Secrets of the Pinewood Derby
- Click here to see pinewood derby photos sent in by readers.
- Click here to submit your pinewood derby photos.
Packs around the country are preparing to hold their annual pinewood derby. There are many ways to make your pinewood derby car go faster. Here are some of them.
GENERAL GUIDELINES FOR CAR DESIGN
|
AUDIO SLIDESHOW: Watch as members of Pack 10 in Cornelius, N.C., prepare and race their cars in a pinewood derby. (Slideshow by Patrick Schneider) |
The possibilities are endless when it comes to picking a shape for your pinewood derby car. Before you begin, consider the following guidelines:
- Avoid designs with a pointed nose. A pointed nose will make it difficult for your car to rest on the pin at the starting gate. It may also cause your car to get bumped around when the pin drops, and it can create problems for electronic timing systems.
- Leave enough wood in the rear of the car so you can place additional weight there. You will end up putting most of the weight in the rear of the car.
- Be sure that it is very clear which end of your car is the front and which end is the back. In many races, the race officials—not you—will actually place each car on the track. Sometimes the officials put the car on the track backward because they can’t tell which end is which.
- Choose a design that allows the air to move over and around the car body in a smooth manner. Cars with aerodynamic profiles go faster.
DESIGNING THE ULTIMATE CAR
You don’t have to strive for the “ultimate car” to build a fast car and have fun competing in your pinewood derby. But if you and a helpful adult are willing to put in the extra time and effort, these tips are for you.
- Bake the Block: Start with your block of wood, and before you do anything else, bake it in the oven at 250 degrees for around two hours to remove moisture and make it lighter.
- Create the Design: Select a fast design.
- Cut the Design: Draw the outline of your car on a sheet of paper, cut it out and attach it to your block of wood.
- Make a Three-Wheeler: Raise one wheel about 1/16 inch higher so it never actually touches the track. Less friction = more speed.
- Extend the Wheelbase: The front and rear wheels should be as far apart as possible.
- Determine Weight Placement: A heavier rear increases speed. Add weight to the rear.
- Create Glue Holes: Glue the axles firmly in their holes to ensure that they stay perfectly placed.
- Sand the Car: Make it smooth to reduce friction.
- Lubricate the Wheel Well: The less friction between the body and wheel, the better.
CHOOSING YOUR AXLES
Not all axles are created equal. Here’s a tip on choosing the straightest out of your bunch.
Start with a set of about 20 raw axles.
Can you tell the difference between the axles in the top row and the ones on the bottom? The ones on the bottom aren’t straight and will slow your car.
To tell which are straight and which aren’t, mark each axle with a marker about 1/2 inch from the pointed end.
Have an adult clamp a power drill into a vise, a device that will hold it perfectly still.- Have an adult help you clamp each axle into the drill at the location you marked in Step 3. Have the adult turn on the drill.
Bent axles will wobble as they turn in the drill. Straight axles will hardly wobble at all. Pick the ones that wobble least.
WANT MORE SECRETS?
Pick up a copy of “Pinewood Derby Speed Secrets” (BSA Supply No. 30538, 1-800-323-0736, www.scoutstuff.org) for lots more info on building the car body, preparing the axles and wheels, alternatives to the “ultimate car” and putting it all together.
And once you’ve built your car, get ideas on making it look great from “Pinewood Derby Designs & Patterns” (DK Publishing, $12.95 softcover), also available from a BSA retail store. Remember: The No. 1 rule of a pinewood derby is that it’s supposed to be fun. While you should always strive to do your best, don’t get caught up in winning. Just enjoy the ride.
The Pinewood Derby Tool Set includes all the things you need to cut, shape and sand your derby car. It comes with a coping saw, four blades, a hand file, a sanding stick and extra sandpaper. $17.99. BSA Supply No. 17371, 1-800-323-0736, www.scoutstuff.org.
Read 93 comments about “Speed Secrets of the Pinewood Derby”
Comment page: « 10 [9] 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 »
Comment page: « 10 [9] 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 »
If you enjoy disapproving looks from those around you, then this trick is for you!
May 30th, 2008 at 10:35 pm
These are some useful tips
May 29th, 2008 at 9:36 pm
weve been trying to get a better car thanks ill try it when it comes
May 21st, 2008 at 9:13 pm
hey thanks for the tips, i never knew abou the “3″ wheeler thing until now and im sure to beat my classmates in physics! thanks again for the advice
April 26th, 2008 at 1:10 pm
Please reconsider some of your tips. My scout used tip #5 - Extend your wheel base. We had to move them at the council race because they were further apart than permitted. As a result the wheel wasn’t very secure and wobbled/rubbed agains the car.
April 12th, 2008 at 3:45 pm
I came up with a speedy design nicknamed “Hawkspear” its 6 and a half MPH
April 12th, 2008 at 12:52 pm
Don’t put the axles in all the way let the car teter it makes it fast
April 2nd, 2008 at 6:09 pm
My car is going to win
March 31st, 2008 at 6:39 pm
I loved the pinewood derby when I was in cub scouts.Now I’m a boyscout.But you do alot of fun things in boyscouts.GOODLUCK to all of you.
March 28th, 2008 at 11:16 am
Why do they have to put lead under the cars? Does the weight give it better stability and speed? The first Pinewood derby race I did, they filled an entire hole full of lead, and I won first prize.
March 26th, 2008 at 6:01 am
can you grease the wheels when you’re making adjustments to your car?