BL Workshop

Speed Secrets of the Pinewood Derby

By David Meade
Photographs by DK Publishing
From the December 2007 Boys' Life magazine

• Click here to see pinewood derby photos sent in by readers.
• Click here to submit your pinewood derby photos.

Packs around the country are preparing to hold their annual pinewood derby. There are many ways to make your pinewood derby car go faster. Here are some of them.

GENERAL GUIDELINES FOR CAR DESIGN

The possibilities are endless when it comes to picking a shape for your pinewood derby car. Before you begin, consider the following guidelines:

• Avoid designs with a pointed nose. A pointed nose will make it difficult for your car to rest on the pin at the starting gate. It may also cause your car to get bumped around when the pin drops, and it can create problems for electronic timing systems.
  
  
• Leave enough wood in the rear of the car so you can place additional weight there. You will end up putting most of the weight in the rear of the car.
  
  
• Be sure that it is very clear which end of your car is the front and which end is the back. In many races, the race officials—not you—will actually place each car on the track. Sometimes the officials put the car on the track backward because they can’t tell which end is which.
  
  
• Choose a design that allows the air to move over and around the car body in a smooth manner. Cars with aerodynamic profiles go faster.

DESIGNING THE ULTIMATE CAR

You don’t have to strive for the “ultimate car” to build a fast car and have fun competing in your pinewood derby. But if you and a helpful adult are willing to put in the extra time and effort, these tips are for you.

1. Bake the Block: Start with your block of wood, and before you do anything else, bake it in the oven at 250 degrees for around two hours to remove moisture and make it lighter.
   
   
2. Create the Design: Select a fast design.
   
   
3. Cut the Design: Draw the outline of your car on a sheet of paper, cut it out and attach it to your block of wood.
   
   
4. Make a Three-Wheeler: Raise one wheel about 1/16 inch higher so it never actually touches the track. Less friction = more speed.
   
   
5. Extend the Wheelbase: The front and rear wheels should be as far apart as possible.
   
   
6. Determine Weight Placement: A heavier rear increases speed. Add weight to the rear.
   
   
7. Create Glue Holes: Glue the axles firmly in their holes to ensure that they stay perfectly placed.
   
   
8. Sand the Car: Make it smooth to reduce friction.
   
   
9. Lubricate the Wheel Well: The less friction between the body and wheel, the better.

CHOOSING YOUR AXLES
Not all axles are created equal. Here’s a tip on choosing the straightest out of your bunch.

1. Start with a set of about 20 raw axles.




2. Can you tell the difference between the axles in the top row and the ones on the bottom? The ones on the bottom aren’t straight and will slow your car.




3. To tell which are straight and which aren’t, mark each axle with a marker about 1/2 inch from the pointed end.




4. Have an adult clamp a power drill into a vise, a device that will hold it perfectly still.
   
   
5. Have an adult help you clamp each axle into the drill at the location you marked in Step 3. Have the adult turn on the drill.




6. Bent axles will wobble as they turn in the drill. Straight axles will hardly wobble at all. Pick the ones that wobble least.

WANT MORE SECRETS?

Pick up a copy of “Pinewood Derby Speed Secrets” (BSA Supply No. 30538, 1-800-323-0736, www.scoutstuff.org) for lots more info on building the car body, preparing the axles and wheels, alternatives to the “ultimate car” and putting it all together.

And once you’ve built your car, get ideas on making it look great from “Pinewood Derby Designs & Patterns” (DK Publishing, $12.95 softcover), also available from a BSA retail store. Remember: The No. 1 rule of a pinewood derby is that it’s supposed to be fun. While you should always strive to do your best, don’t get caught up in winning. Just enjoy the ride.

The Pinewood Derby Tool Set includes all the things you need to cut, shape and sand your derby car. It comes with a coping saw, four blades, a hand file, a sanding stick and extra sandpaper. $17.99. BSA Supply No. 17371, 1-800-323-0736, www.scoutstuff.org.

Read 93 comments about “Speed Secrets of the Pinewood Derby”

Comment page:   « 10 9 8 7 6 [5] 4 3 2 1 »

1. 43 - derby master says:
   January 28th, 2008 at 11:33 pm

   Be sure that any of the hints to make your car faster don’t make your car illegal. For instance, our council doesn’t allow a pointed front (must be flat for 3/4 of middle), nor can we extend the wheelbase, it must be factory cut. Not all speed tips are equal or a good idea. Check the rules before you run with it! Good luck racing.

2. 42 - carybm says:
   January 28th, 2008 at 7:46 pm

   Every cub’s dream is to have a cool looking car and have it fast. Are they both possible at the same time though? With these tips it can be.Tip 1: model your car after a race car. The real thing goes fast, so why shouldn’t your derby? Tip 2: like the packet above says you need lots of weight in the back. Try drilling a hole in the back and filling it with lead. (Make sure you get it weighed first.) Tip 3: Think of cool models that look good aerodynamic. One year I had a rocket that had a point at the front ,after that it slanted up to go fast. It almost won before it broke during the race☻. Tip 4: Try using metallic spray paint for a nice shine.

   MAKE SURE TO HAVE FUN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

3. 41 - bluedyna says:
   January 28th, 2008 at 8:15 am

   The critical point in making the car fast is to be absolutely sure, or at least as sure as you can be, that the wheels are running true and smoothly. Polish the axles where the wheel rides on them to remove all burrs on the axles, polish the insides of the wheel hubs with pipecleaners and smooth the tread surface of the wheels to remove all mold marks. Be absolutely sure the axles are perfectly aligned with a 90 degree angle from the track surface and precisely perpendicular to the axis of the car body. Use plenty of dry, powdered graphite to lubricate the wheels and get the weight of the car just as close to the maximum allowed with weight inserted in holes drilled in the rear of the car and fastened low on the sides of the car between the front and rear wheels.

4. 40 - Jer says:
   January 26th, 2008 at 11:20 pm

   I just remolded the batmobeil and i am on to finals

5. 39 - nate says:
   January 24th, 2008 at 11:42 am

   the wheels matter

6. 38 - Webelokid says:
   January 23rd, 2008 at 10:03 pm

   It’s Awesome tips, my cars sure to win!!!

7. 37 - Early says:
   January 21st, 2008 at 8:40 pm

   Thanks I hope I’ll win this year.

8. 36 - bobbyman says:
   January 17th, 2008 at 9:04 pm

   I Never Knew THAT! THANKS!

9. 35 - sj says:
   January 16th, 2008 at 10:07 pm

   Awsome!!!

10. 34 - Zenster007 says:
    January 13th, 2008 at 3:26 pm

    thanks for the tips

Comment page:   « 10 9 8 7 6 [5] 4 3 2 1 »

Write a comment about “Speed Secrets of the Pinewood Derby”